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Our house guests often require a light supper on Wednesday evening as they arrive. I have plenty to do in the kitchen, even Wednesday evening so, I like to provide a pot of chili or soup. Guests can help themselves and it stays warm for latecomers. This years candidate is…
3 stalks celery chopped (6oz) 3 carrots chopped (8oz) 2 onions chopped (8oz) 8 mushrooms chopped (4oz) 1 head cauliflower (20oz) 2 tablespoons dried parsley 8 ounces Merci Buckets Saison by Bucket Brewery 6 cups stock (vegetable or chicken) 3 ounces butter (3/4 stick) 3 cups milk 1 cup heavy cream 4 ounces butter (one stick) 2.5 ounces AP flour Salt and pepper to taste
Yet another soup! This is really more a chowder with a nice creamy base. Lots to chop, but this recipe makes a whole pot of soup; enough to eat tonight and more to save for another day.
So begin by chopping all the vegetables: celery, carrots, onions, mushrooms and cauliflower. I don’t actually chop the cauliflower. I break the larger flowers
apart, the cut some stems and break apart again until I get the size flowerets that I desire. When I made this recipe this week I was fortunate to have a very fresh yellow
cauliflower right from the Farmer’s Market.
Melt the 3oz of butter in the soup pot and then add the onions and celery to begin softening
the vegetables. Cook at medium for about 3 minutes, stirring one or twice to mix and coat them. Next add the mushrooms, mix and cook for 3 more minutes, then repeat with the carrots and finally the cauliflower.
Sprinkle the parsley on top and add the Merci Buckets, the wonderful new saison from Bucket Brewery. Now cover and simmer the vegetables in the beer broth for about 15-20 minutes, stirring occasionally.
Now add the stock, mine was homemade chicken this time. Let the mixture simmer for about an hour.
Meanwhile lets whip up some white sauce or béchamel. Béchamel is a building block for so many dishes, that it’s great to have it mastered. We start with the roux, which is itself the basis for so many sauces and gravies that you’ll be glad you know it too.
A roux is a mixture of equal parts of oil, butter, or fat renderings and flour. The roux mixture is cooked at least three to five minutes over low heat to remove the raw flavor of the flour, then the liquid is added which thickens into the gravy. The roux method is least likely to produce lumpy gravy or sauce.
To make the roux, melt 4 ounces of butter in a space pan over medium heat, being careful not to scorch it. When it bubbles up, whisk in the flour, adding only about a third at a time, giving the butter time to absorb it. You should have a fairly smooth mixture and now we’ll cook it for 4-5 minutes whisking frequently. This part takes some practice, because you want to cook the flour
feel from the mixture without scorching it, which is easy to do. Error on the side of taking bit more time, rather than too hot. The mouth-feel
will be very smooth when its ready, not grainy like raw flour.
During this time warm the milk, but don’t boil it. Adding warm liquid to a roux makes it much easier to blend it to a smooth sauce.
When the roux is ready, add the warm milk slowly to the roux while stirring. It should immediately begin to thicken. Keep whisking until its blended to a smooth consistency while bringing it back to a simmer. Whisk in the cream and bring it back to a simmer one more time. This sauce recipe was designed to be quite thick to stand up when added to the broth in the soup, so simmer a few more minutes to desired thickness, then turn it off and cover it until its time to blend it into the soup. My white sauce cooled to quite a thick consistency before I was ready to blend it, but not to worry, adding it too the warm soup base will bring it to just right consistency for your chowder.
When the soup base had simmered for about and hour, I mixed in the white sauce, then let the chowder simmer for about 30 more minutes to let all the flavors meld.
16 oz beef flap 12 oz Bucket's Pawtucket Pail Ale 48 oz beef or homemade stock* 8 oz chopped onion 4 cloves garlic, sliced 3/4 cup pearl barley flour for dredging salt and pepper to taste EVOO (extra virgin olive oil)
Fall is the perfect time for soups and this soggy week in Providence clinched the deal. I know, flap is not really “steak” as we think of steak. That is you can’t just grill it up and enjoy it like steaks, it’s usually too tough. But as I have said repeatedly, with a little love, flap is about 1/3rd the price of really great steak cuts and often more flavorful. A long simmering soup, is just another great way to enjoy this magic cut.
Acknowledgement: As in this post, I will often expound on the cuts of meat and poultry I use in my recipes. I am not a butcher nor do I possess any special knowledge of the art, though it is a secret passion. However I do have a special source for all my butchery advice. It's an out of print, but available, book Cutting Up in the Kitchen
by Merle Ellis.
I prepare this dish in my Instant Pot, which takes all of 40 minutes to make a long simmered soup, but you can do the same using a slow-cooker and just set it for all day.
I can even use the Instant Pot
to sauté the onions and garlic, but you can use a fry or sauté pan. So do that, sauté the onions and garlic in the olive oil, then add them to your stock pot or slow cooker.
I took my flap right from the freezer and sliced the strips into 1/4 inch slices. It’s actually easier to slice thin when it’s still partially frozen. Throw the slices into a large bowl with flour and salt and pepper and shake to coat the beef slices. Brown the beef slices in more olive oil and then add them to the pot.
Now add the stock, the beer and the pearl barley. Most any homemade stock would be fine. The stock from Park Loop Pulled Pork, would be exceptional! If you are buying stock, might as well get beef stock.
You are ready to let the slow-cooker or stock pot work its magic. The timing is not too important, but it should simmer/cook for at least 4-5 hours.
The dough: Starter dough: 1 cup (135 grams) of AP flour* 1/8 tsp of instant dry yeast 1/2 cup (132 grams) of warm beer*, 110~115ºF/45ºC 1 cup + 2 tbsp (160 grams) of AP flour 1/4 cup (43 grams) of dark brown sugar 2 tbsp (12 grams) of natural cocoa powder 1 tsp of instant dry yeast 1/4 tsp of salt 1/3 cup (80 grams) of warm whole milk, 110~115ºF/45ºC Butter dough: 10 tbsp (141 grams) of unsalted butter, cold 3 tbsp (24 grams) of AP flour Nutella spread, softened at room-temperature YIELD: about 24 mini-muffins
Let me begin by saying that this recipe is adapted from Easy Laminated Nutella Morning Buns
at Ladyandpups.com, the “angry food blog”. I don’t miss a single recipe from this truly fearless food site. It’s worth your full attention. And Mandy’s photography puts mine to shame.
The Kitchen Drudge has a special friend, soon to be part of the family 😉 , who has an affinity for Nutella, that awesome cocoa/hazelnut concoction. Last year I created a Nutella/Bacon pizza with rewarding results. So when I saw a recipe that included laminated dough, something I learned to make last year, AND Nutella, I was intrigued. But when I realized that I could easily substitute Bucket’s Park Loop Porter, with its rich coffee
notes, for the water in the starter dough, I could not resist this adventure.
If you are intimidated by laminated dough, well perhaps you should be. I’m pleased to tell you that Mandy has created a version that is hours easier than the two day process I learned professionally. I’m going to paraphrase, but if this is your first attempt of laminated dough, you should indeed check out Ladyandpups.com, for more details and a graphic of the whole process.
Start with, well the starter dough:
Combine 1 cup of AP flour, the 1/8 tsp of instant dry yeast and the warm* beer in a bowl until a rough dough forms. Set aside for 30 min.
While we wait for the yeast and beer to get moving, cut the cold butter and 3 tbsp of flour together in another bowl, until very smoothly and evenly combined. Set aside at room-temperature. (I think even on a cool day you might want to let this sit in the fridge for some or all of the 30 minutes).
Add the rest of the bread flour, dark brown sugar, natural cocoa powder, instant dry yeast and salt in a stand-mixer bowl with the paddle attachment. I usually blend these dry ingredients for a few seconds before adding the wet ones. Then add the starter dough and begin mixing. Then add the warm* milk. When the dough forms a ball, (a blob really), switch to the dough hook, increase to medium speed and knead for 6-8 minutes, until the dough is shiny and elastic. It will still be sticky, but should pull away from the sides like other yeast doughs.
Move the dough from the bowl to a floured work table. Roll the dough into a long, 3 1/2″ x 18″ sheet. Keeping the edges strait will help you immensely when the folding begins. This I learned in pastry class! Then dot the butter/dough we prepped earlier in dollops, evenly over the top, then smooth it out into a thin layer with your fingers or a spatula. Flour your hands, and “fold the dough 5 times from one end to the other, at about every 3″ segment. Pinch the two opening-sides together and make sure it sticks tightly together, then turn the dough 90 degrees. Poke a few very small holes for the air inside to escape (this makes the rolling much easier), then roll again into a long, 3 1/2″ x 15″ sheet. Now, fold the dough 4 times from one end to the other, again at about every 3″ segment.”, per Mandy. See the graphic at Ladyandpups.com.
Wrap the dough in plastic and chill for 2 hours.
I prefer my sweet baked goods in modestly sized portions. I’m odd that way. I’m old and my arteries need all the support they can get. So I turn many recipes into mini’s, as I do with my Maple Stout Doughnut Muffins. Hence, Nutella Mini Buns.
When it’s time to make the buns, roll out the dough. For the mini’s you’ll want a sheet about 24″x 9″. Spread the whole sheet with the Nutella spread. It should be at room temp and easy to work so as not to ted the dough. Then with a pastry cutter or pizza cutter, divide it down the length into 2 pieces 24″ x 4.5″.
Now roll one sheet into a long log shape, pinching the seam together and rolling it to the underside. With a serrated knife, carefully slice the log into 1″ pieces and drop each into a sprayed mini muffin tin. My pan holds 2 dozen and that’s about what the recipe should yield. Slicing will be cleaner if you rinse the knife every few cuts. The Nutella will tend to build up on the blade which will make for nasty cutting.
Proof the buns for 1.5 hours. They should rise above the rim of the cups, but keep them at about 80%, not doubling them.
Bake at 400F for about 15 minutes. Browning is hard to discern with dark dough but they’ll be puffed and oozing Nutella.
* warm the beer in the microwave for about 30 seconds. You'll want it around 110-115F or 45C. Any hotter and you'll start killing the yeasties. Ditto the milk. and a note about the flour: I have been baking for two decades and never used "bread" flour. I always choose a great all-purpose flour like King Authur and have never been disappointed with my results.
6 tablespoons EVOO 4 6-inch corn tortillas, halved and cut crosswise into 1/4-inch strips 1 onion, chopped 4 large cloves garlic, smashed 1/2 teaspoons ground cumin 1 teaspoon ground coriander 1.5 teaspoon Better Chili Powder
or whatever chili powder you have 1 teaspoon hot sauce 32 ounces chicken broth or homemade stock 3 cups canned crushed tomatoes in thick puree (one 28-ounce can) 1 8-9 ounces corn (this is about one can) 1 bay leaf 1 teaspoons salt 8 ounces Park Loop Pulled Pork
4 ounces cheddar, grated
It’s getting to be Fall around New England, so a nice spicy soup is in order. Best part is that this recipe is another great use of our Park Loop Pulled Pork.
Chop the onion and smash or mince the garlic. Add them to your pot with some EVOO and begin to sweat them. After about two minutes add the cumin, coriander and Better Chili Powder
and cook for another three minutes.
Add the tomatoes, stock and the bay leaf and simmer about 30 minutes. Remove the bay leaf and very carefully puree the soup a cup or two at a time in a blender or food processor. I had to replace my stick blender after about 20 years. The new one is much stronger, so I gave it a try; right in the stock-pot. Presto! Pureed soup.
After pureeing the soup, put it back in the stock-pot and add the pulled pork and the corn and simmer for another 30 minutes.
Just before you are ready to sit down to this pot of soup prepare the tortilla strips. *You can fry them ahead of course, but I really like them hot and fresh.
Cut the tortillas into 1/4 inch strips and deep fry then in any good cooking oil. I usually have a large jug of peanut oil around just for frying things. Do a handful at a time and drain them on paper towel as they come out of the oil. If you’re doing a ton of them, you might wish to keep them warm on a baking tray in a warm oven as you go.
I serve in big flat soup bowls, sprinkle the cheese on top and then add the tortilla strips. Some people like to add some strips to the soup before serving to have some soggy strips in the soup too. In the words of David Sedaris, “… It’s not something I would want for myself, but…”
Notes: I wanted to try this recipe with the stock left over from the Park Loop Pulled Pork, but alas, I was out. I did have homemade chicken stock though ;) Many recipes for tortilla soup use cooked chicken, but we're pork fans at TKD. Here I used Trader Joe's canned whole kernel corn. I don't know why it's so much better than most canned corn, but we have been buying it for YEARS and it's delicious. But really this is a great time of year to get some fresh ears of corn, cook 'em up and shave the corn off the cobs.
1.5 pounds (24oz) beef flap or chuck 2 cups (16oz) onions chopped 2 tablespoon (1oz) brown sugar 28 ounces 13th Original Maple Stout 1 Bay leaf 2 sprigs Fresh Thyme 2 tablespoons Apple cider Vinegar 1/4 cup Flour to dredge Salt and pepper to taste
It may sound crazy to be combining brown sugar, vinegar and beer, but in this dish you are after a sweet and sour effect. A good whole grain mustard is a good substitution for the vinegar, but my favorite is to use real apple cider that you’ve hidden away until it just begins to turn. But that’s usually a fall thing.
Cut up the meat into large chunks. Not as small as bite/fork size, because the pieces will break apart on their own once you have braised this for 3 hours. Put the meat in a large bowl, salt and pepper to your taste and then dredge with flour, tossing the meat to get the pieces covered in the flour, salt and pepper.
NOTE: A word about the meat choice. Since this is a braised (cooked in liquid ) dish, you can use just about any cut of beef you want, but expensive cuts may actually not fare as well as some of the tougher less expensive cuts. Hence my choice of flap. The flap is actually part of the flank. It has great flavor but it's not tender enough to make it as a steak. But it braises beautifully and its usually inexpensive. The other easy choice is chuck and you'll often find it all cut up for you.
Since the onions are the only other ingredient you can see in the finished dish, I like to use whole pearl or boiling onions. I blanch them, then slide off the outer skins. But you can just as easily use regular large onions. Peel ’em and chop ’em. If you are chopping your onions, you’ll probably want to brown them a bit in some butter or olive oil in the bottom of your braising pan. I add the boiling onions after browning the meat without browning them.
If you’ve browned your onions, remove them from the pan and set them aside while you brown the meat. Add some oil to the pan, get it hot, then add the floured meat chunks. My small five quart cast iron dutch oven requires me to brown the meat in two batches. The objective is to get all the sides of the meat browned. This should go pretty fast and the pieces will stick. Don’t worry about the sticking or the browned flour and meat reside left on the bottom of the pan. And don’t burn it! There’s a lot of flavor in those bits. Once we add the beer, the pan will deglaze
itself and release all the stuck-on bits into our stew.
When all the meat has been browned, add back any you have removed and add the onions. Now pour on the beer. The object here is to have enough liquid to pretty well cover the beef and onions. Again the size of your pan may play a roll here. I have down-sized my braising from a family-sized dutch oven that would hold a small turkey, to a nifty 5 quart cast iron pot with probably a third of the bottom area. This means less liquid to cover the meat and vegetables I’m braising. If you are short of enough beer to cover, adding some beef stock or even just water will do the trick. The liquid is going to cook down by about 2/3’s and become a very concentrated gravy
for our stew.
Sprinkle in the brown sugar, add the cider vinegar the bay leaf and the thyme. That’s it! Cover the braising pot and place it in a pre-heated 350 degree oven for about three hours. I check it every hour. At the beginning of the last hour check the seasoning and adjust. You’ll want to check the liquid at this point too. You don’t want to cook off all the liquid. The stew will burn and make a mess of your pot. Add a bit more if you think the meat is not done and the liquid is too low. You want the meat to fall apart at the touch. I usually use some tongs to lift a piece out and place in on a small plate to cool. Then I can check the done-ness and the seasoning without burns.
NOTE: A word of caution, your pot will be very hot and full of steam. You can use mitts to remove it from the oven, then slowly open the lid to release the steam before checking the contents.
This is a hearty dish and will not require much more than a nice green salad on the side. Of course if you’re going for the full effect, frites (the Belgian version of french fries) is the traditional accompaniment. Of course Bucket Multigrain Beer Bread, is great on the side too.
I like to server Bucket’s Rhode Scholar (22 IBU 4.6%ABV) or Pawtucket Pail Ale (48 IBU 6.2%ABV) with it this Flemish Beer Stew.
30oz Buttery Sourdough Buns Dough* 4 oz Butter 8 oz Grated Cheddar Chesse 8 oz Bacon*, about eight slices 8 cloves Fresh Garlic 4 tbsp Better Chili Powder*
I almost called this “the Heart Attack Snack”! It certainly possesses all the usual suspects: butter, cheese, and bacon in prodigious quantities. But when compared to some of Paula Dean’s favorites, it’s pretty tame.
This is really about NFL snacks. Mrs Drudge is a serious NE Pats
fan. To avoid being an NFL widow(er?), I choose to provide seasonally appropriate
snacks for the fan base. (You will see, in this space, other NFL Sunday snacks as the season
ok, so lets put this snack together…
This is a pull-apart bread snack, with loads of garlic, cheese and bacon; oh and loads of butter. So cook the bacon, brown the minced/chopped garlic in the bacon grease, melt the butter in the same pan. Pour the butter, bacon grease, garlic mixture into a bowl that will let you submerge the bread dough bits.
You can built this in bread loaf pan, a cake round, even a bundt pan. Of course here at Buckets’ Kitchen, we like to use our pails. Be careful to load your pan only about 2/3’s full of dough balls; these will rise during the second proof and during the bake.
Make ropes of the dough and cut small pieces. You can roll these pieces into balls in your hands, or just leave them as you cut them; after all, your just going to pull them apart later. Duck each piece into the butter/garlic mixture.
I put a bit of the butter mixture on the bottom of the pan for lubrication, then add a layer of dough balls. Don’t crowd them, they will expand and you want the cheese to get in between.
Next sprinkle on some chili powder, then some cheese, then some chopped bacon. Repeat the layers until you have filled the pan about 2/3’s full, ending with cheese and bacon.
Let this rise in a warm place for about 30 minutes while you preheat your oven to 350F. I wait until it rises to just the rim of then pan. Bake for 22-28 minutes.
This loaf will be very moist due to all the butter/bacon grease. Let it rest in the pan until you can handle the pan without mits. Then remove it to a rack to cool or serve it right up. Of course you want to re-warm it just before serving in any case.
Beer is almost a requirement for serving. I chose Bucket Park Loop Porter for my snack and the photo-op. Then for dinner, I made some home-made tomato soup for dunking…and Bucket Pawtucket Pail Ale to honor the pails it was baked in.
Notes: For years Mrs Drudge and I used supermarket frozen bread dough for this kind of recipe. My guess is two frozen loaves, defrosted according to package instructions will provide the right amount of dough for this recipe. Another alternative could be a simple refrigerator "roll dough" from you grocers refrigerated section. Here's my version of KAF's Buttery Sourdough Buns. You can make this with any chili powder you have handy but I recommend using something special. For this recipe I used some fresh New Mexico Chili powder gifted to us by our lovely neighbors after their trip to Albuquerque.
If your house is like mine, it will be impregnated with the aroma of cooking bacon for about three days; pick a great bacon.
1.5 oz WhistlePig 100/100 Vermont Straight Rye Whiskey 2 tsp Wood's Cider Mill Boiled Cider 2 dashes bitters 1 oz Bucket Park Loop Porter
Cocktail time again at the Kitchen Drudge’s kitchen! I know, I know, when is it NOT cocktail time in the Kitchen Drudge kitchen. I like to think of this cocktail as a New England hat trick
*. We have combined 3 New England products to make this stunning and delicious beer cocktail.
Here’s how to make it. Combine the first 3 ingredients in a shaker with ice. Shake and strain into an up glass. Shake the porter to make a foam. We used a small mason jelly jar with a tight lid, but be careful when you open it because there will be pressure in the jar.
Float the Porter foam on the top of the cocktail and add an apple twist as a garnish.
I haven’t tried it. Yet. But I imagine you can shake ingredients for multiple drinks at one time and then add the Porter foam as you serve.
After several rounds, we christened this cocktail the “Harry Porter”. You be the judge!